4 minute read
There’s something surreal about arriving in the Loire Valley in December. The air is cold enough to bite, the countryside sits quiet and bare, and then—one château after another—these towering Renaissance estates start glowing like someone flipped the switch on an entire fairytale world. The region goes all-in on Christmas, and it shows. Every château has its own personality, its own story, its own way of pulling you deeper into the season.
My first stop would be Château de Cheverny, and the place hits you like a sugar rush. A 100-foot Christmas tree dominates the grounds, surrounded by oversized ornaments, gingerbread figures, glowing wreaths and a new “Elves’ House” that doubles as an Advent calendar. Every room inside feels like a different chapter of the same holiday book, and yes—Cheverny’s famous hot chocolate is absolutely part of the experience.
A short drive away, Château de Chambord shifts the tone completely. This year’s theme honors the 150th anniversary of Hans Christian Andersen’s death, so the estate leans hard into storybook fantasy. Fairy-tale décor fills the halls, with a new magic show, old-world games, Renaissance dancing and an entire Christmas village complete with chalets and a carousel. Chambord feels like stepping into a winter classic—larger-than-life, whimsical, unapologetically theatrical.
Then there’s Château Royal de Blois, which takes the holiday season in a different direction. Instead of nostalgia, Blois goes modern with “Chromatic Dreams,” a contemporary light-installation takeover by artist Jérémie Bellot. A glowing orb called the Moon of Wishes illuminates the courtyard with shifting colors, while two massive luminous stars fill the Gothic Salle des États Généraux. It’s dramatic, minimalist, and visually sharp—a refreshing contrast to the more traditional displays elsewhere.
For a full Victorian mood, Château de Maintenon goes straight for the Dickensian heartstrings. “Winter of Wonders” transforms the estate into a 19th-century Christmas scene with festive lights, children’s workshops, choral performances and all the cozy theatrical touches you’d expect from something inspired by A Christmas Carol. Picture pine garlands, candlelit corridors and a warm, old-world holiday atmosphere.
Down the valley, Domaine de Chaumont-sur-Loire pulls you into a Belle Époque Christmas with its Dreams of Yore theme. Rooms once lived in by the de Broglie family—salons, dining rooms, kitchens and the children’s quarters—are dressed the way they might’ve been between 1875 and 1938. It’s intimate, detailed and grounded in actual history rather than fantasy.
Château d’Azay-le-Rideau leans back into fairytales with décor inspired by classic stories. Expect a Snow White tree trimmed with golden apples, a crystal-blue Snow Queen table and even a Narnia-inspired icy cupboard. It’s subtle and imaginative, the kind of holiday design that makes you slow down just to take in the details.
And then there’s Château de Chenonceau—always a standout, always dramatic. This year’s “Far North” theme turns the grand gallery into a full birch forest, fills the rooms with white firs and stages frosty scenes in the kitchens, penguins included. Chenonceau sits over the water, so the winter aesthetic hits even harder here. It’s cold, elegant and cinematic.
Finally, Château de Villandry transforms into an enchanted forest. Reindeer, owls and squirrels “roam” the interiors while the winter gardens outside complete the story. Villandry always nails its seasonal themes, and this year is no exception.
The whole region becomes a holiday circuit worth traveling for—each château offering its own version of Christmas, each experience different enough to make you want to see all of them. It’s one of those rare destinations where the season isn’t an add-on. It’s the whole point.
